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Reference

Japanese Knife & Craft Glossary

A complete reference to the words a chef or collector meets around Japanese knives — the blade types and steels, the anatomy and grinds, forging and finishes, the cutlery regions and smiths, whetstones and sharpening, and the pottery, lacquer and collector culture that surround them.

This glossary is organised into eleven sections, from knife types and steel metallurgy through forging, whetstones and sharpening, to Japanese ceramics, lacquerware and the international collector community.

1Knife Types, Shapes & Uses

The main shapes of Japanese and Western knives, and the job each one is made for.

Slicing & sashimi

Yanagiba (sashimi slicer)
A long, slender single-bevel knife for slicing sashimi in one clean pull-stroke.
Takohiki
The Kanto-style sashimi knife, with a squared-off tip instead of a point.
Sakimaru Takohiki
A showy takohiki whose tip sweeps up like a Japanese sword.
Kiritsuke Yanagiba
A single-bevel slicer with the angled, sword-like kiritsuke tip.
Fuguhiki (pufferfish slicer)
An ultra-thin, flexible slicer for cutting pufferfish paper-thin.

Fish butchery

Deba
A heavy single-bevel knife for breaking down and filleting whole fish.
Mioroshi Deba
A slimmer deba that bridges butchery and slicing in a single knife.
Ai Deba
A lighter, slightly slimmer deba than the standard.
Yo-Deba
A thick, double-bevel deba built on a Western profile.
Sakekiri (salmon knife)
A large knife for boldly chopping through big salmon.
Maguro-kiri (tuna knife)
A sword-length knife for cutting a whole tuna in a single stroke.

Vegetable & all-purpose

Usuba
A straight single-bevel vegetable knife for julienne and katsuramuki peeling.
Kamagata Usuba
The Kansai-style usuba, with a rounded, sickle-like tip.
Nakiri
A double-bevel vegetable knife, easy to handle even at home.
Mukimono
A small single-bevel knife for delicate decorative vegetable carving.
Santoku
The all-purpose double-bevel home knife for meat, fish and vegetables.
Funayuki
The fisherman's all-rounder, once used on the boat from filleting to general prep.

Western & all-purpose

Gyuto (chef knife)
The Western chef knife as it evolved in Japan — for meat and larger ingredients.
Kiritsuke Gyuto
A double-bevel gyuto with the angled kiritsuke tip.
Petty knife
A small all-purpose knife for fine prep and fruit.
Sujihiki (slicer)
A long slicer for trimming sinew from large cuts of meat and slicing them.
Paring knife
A tiny knife for peeling fruit and fine handwork.
Kiritsuke
The head-chef knife, its tip cut off at an angle — traditionally the most senior blade.
Laser (grind)
A knife ground extremely thin, so it drops through food with almost no resistance.
Workhorse (grind)
A heavier, robust grind built for hard, everyday use.

Specialist knives

Hamokiri / Honekiri
A knife for scoring the fine bones of pike conger (hamo) without cutting the skin.
Unagisaki (eel knife)
Eel-filleting knives whose shape changes by region — Edo, Osaka, Kyoto and Nagoya styles.
Sobakiri
A large knife for cutting soba dough into even strands.
Menkiri
A straight-edged knife for cutting udon or ramen noodles at even width.
Pankiri (bread knife)
A serrated knife that cuts bread cleanly.
Chinese cleaver (Chukabocho)
A broad rectangular knife for all-round work and butchery.
Honesuki (boning)
A strong, small triangular knife for boning and jointing meat.
Garasuki
A larger honesuki for breaking down whole poultry.
Kaizaki (shellfish knife)
A small knife for prying open and shucking shellfish.
Reito-kiri (frozen-food knife)
A saw-toothed knife for cutting through rock-hard frozen food.

2Steel Types & Metallurgy

The metals and heat treatment that decide a knife's sharpness, edge retention and rust resistance.

Carbon steels (Hitachi / Proterial)

Shirogami #1 (White #1)
High-carbon, very pure carbon steel that takes the keenest edge of all.
Shirogami #2 (White #2)
The classic carbon steel, well balanced between edge and ease of sharpening.
Shirogami #3 (White #3)
A low-impurity carbon steel that is easy to work with.
Aogami #1 (Blue #1)
A premium steel with chromium and tungsten added for wear resistance.
Aogami #2 (Blue #2)
The long-lasting carbon steel used most often on professional knives.
Aogami Super (Blue Super)
A super-long-lasting steel with added carbon, molybdenum and vanadium.
Kigami (Yellow steel)
A general-purpose carbon steel used for everyday tools and farm implements.
SK steel (Nihon-ko)
A standard, affordable tool steel used on value-priced Japanese knives.

Stainless & powder steels

VG10
A representative stainless with a good balance of hardness, rust resistance and edge life.
VG1 / VG2 / VG5
Easy-to-sharpen stainless steels from Takefu Special Steel.
Ginsan (Silver #3)
A top-grade stainless that takes an edge as keen as carbon steel.
AUS-8 / AUS-10
Rust-resistant stainless steels made by Aichi Steel.
Swedish steel (Sandvik)
A very pure Nordic steel that takes an exceptionally keen edge.
440C
A high-carbon stainless balancing rust resistance and hardness.
SG2 / R2
A premium powdered high-speed steel with remarkable edge retention.
ZDP-189
A powder steel of extreme hardness, with carbon above three percent.
HAP-40
A super wear-resistant powdered high-speed steel for demanding professional work.
SRS-15
A powdered high-speed steel that balances edge life with ease of sharpening.
SLD / D2 (semi-stainless)
A wear-resistant, die-steel-based semi-stainless.

Metallurgy terms

HRC (Rockwell C hardness)
The hardness scale for blades; Japanese knives typically run HRC 58 to 67.
Martensite
The hard crystal structure formed by quenching.
Austenite
The high-temperature structure of steel before quenching.
Retained austenite
Soft austenite left un-transformed after quenching.
Sub-zero treatment
Rapid cooling, often in liquid nitrogen, that converts retained austenite to martensite for stable hardness.
Carbides (primary & secondary)
Fine hard particles dispersed in the steel that give long edge life.
Decarburization
Carbon lost from the steel surface during forging, leaving it softer.
Toughness
A metal's resistance to chipping and breaking.
Carbon equivalent
A number expressing how readily a steel hardens on quenching.
Clad steel
A composite of dissimilar metals bonded and rolled together in advance.

Heat treatment

Quenching (yaki-ire)
Rapidly cooling from high heat to develop hardness.
Tempering (yaki-modoshi)
Removing the brittleness after quenching and giving the steel toughness.
Annealing (yaki-namashi)
Relieving internal stress and softening the metal.
Normalizing (yaki-narashi)
Refining and evening out the grain structure.

Oxidation & rust

Patina
A protective oxide film that forms as carbon steel reacts with acids in food.
Forced patina
Deliberately building a black oxide layer with vinegar or tea to keep red rust away.
Red rust
The harmful rust that eats into and destroys the metal.

3Anatomy, Parts & Grinds

The names for each part of a knife, and the ways an edge can be ground.

和包丁の各部名称・構造(全項目網羅図解) ■ 表面構造(Side View) Spine 峰・棟(みね・むね) Signature 銘(めい) Tip 切っ先(きっさき) Shinogi しのぎ筋 Hira (Flat) 平(ひら) Machi マチ Ferrule 口金(金属) 角巻(水牛) Handle end 柄尻(えじり) Handle 柄(え) Tang 中子(なかご) Kireha 切刃 Chin あご Heel 刃もと Hazakai 刃境(はさかい) Edge 刃先(はさき) ■ 裏面構造(Back side) Uraoshi 裏押 Jiai 地あい Urasuki 裏すき Jizakai 地境 ■ 断面図(Cross section) 表 (Front side) 平 (Hira / Flat) 切刃 (Kireha) 裏 (Back side) High-carbon steel 鋼(はがね) Soft iron 軟鉄(なんてつ) Urasuki 裏すき もしくは樋(ひ)
Anatomy of a single-bevel Japanese knife — side view, back side and cross section. The shinogi line divides the flat hira from the kiriha bevel; the back is hollow-ground (urasuki), and a kasumi blade layers hard carbon steel onto soft iron.

Anatomy terms

Hira (flat)
The flat side above the shinogi line, up to the spine.
Kiriha (bevel face)
The angled face from the shinogi line down to the edge.
Shinogi line
The ridge dividing the flat hira from the kiriha bevel.
Ago / Choil
The squared corner at the heel of the blade.
Machi
The gap between the blade and the handle collar.
Mine / Spine
The back of the blade.
Kissaki / Tip
The very point of the blade.
Sori (curvature)
The angle of the curve rising toward the tip.
Blade height (habahi)
The vertical distance from the choil to the spine.
Blade length (hanawatari)
The length from the machi or choil to the tip.
Distal taper
The spine growing thinner from heel to tip.
Nakago / Tang
The metal root that seats inside the handle.
Full tang
A Western build where the metal runs to the end of the handle.
Half tang (wa-style)
A wa build where the tang is driven into the handle.
Ferrule (buffalo horn / katsura)
The collar at the mouth of a wa-handle.
End cap (butt cap)
A metal cap fitted to the end of the handle.
Handle profile
The cross-section shape — octagonal, D-shape (chestnut) or round.

Single-bevel geometry & grinds

Urasuki
The hollow ground into the back of a single-bevel knife; it stops food sticking and makes sharpening easier.
Uraoshi
The thin flat rim of ground steel around the urasuki hollow.
Micro-bevel (itoba / koba)
A tiny secondary bevel at the very edge that guards against chipping.
Hamaguriba (convex grind)
An edge that swells slightly like a clam shell in cross-section.
Concave grind
A grind hollowed inward in cross-section.
Beta-togi (flat grind)
Sharpening with the whole bevel laid flat against the stone.
S-grind
A custom grind hollowed at the middle of the blade for better food release.
Asymmetric grind
Different bevel angles left and right, for example 7:3 or 8:2 for right-handers.
Primary bevel
The main bevel that forms the base geometry of the blade.

Performance & finish terms

Spine & choil smoothing
Rounding off the sharp corners of the spine and choil so they do not hurt the fingers.
Wedging
The resistance of a thick blade splitting hard foods like root vegetables.
Food release
How well cut food falls away from the blade instead of sticking.
Choil shot
A photo looking down the blade from the choil to show its cross-section.
Saya & saya pin
A wooden protective sheath and the pin that holds the blade in it.

4Forging & Construction

How traditional smiths and sharpeners build a knife, from single steel to layered patterns.

Honyaki
The summit of the craft — forged from a single piece of steel and differentially hardened. It warps easily and is extremely hard to make.
  • Mizu-honyaki:The hardest honyaki technique, quenched in water.
  • Abura-honyaki:An oil-quenched honyaki with a higher success rate.
Kasumi
The standard wa build — a hard cutting steel forge-welded to soft iron.
  • Hon-kasumi:A higher grade, built with the best materials and precise finishing.
Forge welding (tansetsu)
Hammer-bonding dissimilar metals while red hot.
Warikomi / San-mai
A hard steel core sandwiched between two layers of soft iron.
Kofuse
A forging method wrapping a core steel inside another metal.
Damascus (suminagashi)
A wood-grain pattern hammered out from many layers of dissimilar metal.
Kurouchi
A rustic finish that leaves the black forge scale on the blade surface.
Tsuchime
A decorative finish that keeps the dimpled marks of the hammer.
Hamon / Tsuchi-oki
The hardening line that appears on a honyaki blade, created by claying the steel to vary the cooling rate.

Surface finishes

Mirror polish (kyomen)
Polishing the blade to a mirror finish.
Nashiji
A matte finish with a faint texture like washi paper.
Hairline finish
Fine one-directional lines brushed into the surface.
Shot blast
A matte texture created by blasting the surface with fine particles.

Manufacturing process

Hizukuri
Hammering red-hot metal into the shape of the knife.
Straightening (hizumi-tori)
Correcting the warp that appears during hardening and cooling.
Hand hammering (tezukuri tanzo)
Forging entirely by hand with a large hammer.
Mizu-hiki
The judgement of angle and timing when plunging into water at quenching.
Acid etching
Using acid to bring out a Damascus pattern or hamon.
Honbazuke (final edge)
Putting the final working edge on the blade by hand, at shipping or after purchase.
Tagane & meikiri (name engraving)
Carving a name by hand with a special chisel.
Handle fitting (sugekomi)
Driving the heated tang into a wooden handle to fix it in place.

5Regions, Artisans & Brands

Japan's main cutlery regions and the workshops and smiths who carry the tradition.

Five major cutlery regions

Sakai
The dominant home of professional wa-knives, working by a division of labour between smith and sharpener.
Seki
Heir to the swordsmith tradition, strong in Western knives and stainless.
Echizen
Home of Takefu Knife Village, known for thin-forged, modern designs.
Sanjo
Known for heavy forging and robust, workhorse builds.
Tosa
Famous for free-forged kurouchi knives and outdoor blades.

Sakai area

Sakai Takayuki (Aoki Hamono)
A brand spanning traditional-craftsman work to modern lines, sold worldwide.
Ikeda Miwa
A leading figure in water-quenched honyaki forging, working under the mark Myoho.
Shiraki Toshiji
A legendary smith who helped develop Sakai forging (formerly Shiraki Hamono).
Nakagawa Hamono
A distinguished workshop carrying on the Shiraki lineage, forging Ginsan and Aogami.
Yamatsuka Naohito
A Sakai master noted for honyaki forging.
Nomura Shotaro
A traditional-craftsman sharpener who has finished many celebrated knives.
Takada no Hamono
A sharpening atelier run by Takada Kazuyuki.

Sanjo area

Iwasaki Shigeyoshi
A master of Sanjo traditional blades and Japanese-razor research (teacher of Shigefusa).
Shigefusa
A top-tier brand by Iizuka Tokifusa and his sons.
Yoshikane Hamono
A long-established maker respected for heat treatment, working SKD and SLD steels.
Mazaki Naoki
A smith known for traditional fire-forging and a distinctive, weighty grind.
Hinoura Tsukasa / Mutsumi
A father-and-son forge behind Ajikataya, famous for the flowing Unryu forging.

Echizen area

Saji Takeshi
A traditional craftsman and pioneer of custom-knife-style designs.
Kurosaki Yu
World-popular for inventive tsuchime designs such as Shizuku and Fujin.
Kato Yoshimi
A master supporting Takefu Knife Village.

Other masters & makers

Shibata Takayuki (Kotetsu)
The sharpener behind the ultra-thin Kotetsu line.
Masamoto Sohonten
A venerable Tokyo house trusted by professional chefs.
Aritsugu
A historic cutlery house with shops in Kyoto Nishiki Market and Tokyo Tsukiji.
Tojiro
A Sanjo maker known for volume production of VG10 clad knives.
Misono
A Seki maker of Western knives, world-famous for the UX10 series.
Glestain
A Western knife recognised by the dimples pressed into its blade.

6Whetstones & Sharpening

The stones and techniques that keep and restore a knife's edge.

Synthetic stones & tools

Shapton (Ha-no-Kuromaku)
A hard, slow-wearing synthetic stone that is a professional standard.
Naniwa (Chosera)
A premium line prized for smooth feel and an even finish.
King (Matsunaga)
A classic brand loved from beginner practice through to professional use.
Suehiro (Cerax)
A stone that builds a soft slurry for a gentle feel on the edge.
Morihei
A long-established dealer brand aiming at a natural-stone, kasumi-like feel.
Kitayama / Arashiyama
A super-fine finishing stone for a clean mirror edge and final polish.
Atoma (Asahi Diamond)
A durable diamond plate used to flatten stones.

Kyoto natural stones — mines

Nakayama
A famous mine of top-grade natural finishing stones, called the grand champion of the east.
Oohira
A mine producing much fine suita stone.
Yaginoshima
A mine yielding high-quality suita and awasedo stones.
Shoubudani
A historic mine producing fine stones from varied strata.
Maruoyama
A well-known Tanba mine still worked today.

Natural stones — types & patterns

Suita
A layer with gas-bubble marks; it cuts fast and is favoured for honyaki and kasumi knives.
Uchigumori
A top finishing stone that hazes the soft iron white while brightening the cutting steel.
Kiita / Asagi
Colour classes of natural stone — yellow top-grade, and pale-blue ultra-hard.
Tomae
The most common layer among natural finishing stones.
Namazu
A natural stone with brown speckles or banding as its keshiki pattern.
JNAT hardness rating
A one-to-five hardness scale for natural stones used abroad.

Sharpening techniques

Flattening (truing)
Truing a dished stone flat again with a diamond plate.
Dressing
Clearing a glazed, clogged stone surface.
Slurry (togijiru)
The mix of water and released abrasive grit on the stone.
Nagura
A small stone rubbed on the surface to raise slurry.
Burr (kaeri)
The tiny curl of metal that forms on the far side of the edge as you sharpen.
Micro-beveling (kobazuke)
Setting a small angle at the edge for strength against chipping.
Beta-togi (flat sharpening)
Grinding with the whole bevel held flat against the stone.
Ate-togi (spot correction)
Targeting only a specific high spot or warp to correct it.
Uraoshi (back flattening)
Sharpening the rim around a single-bevel back to an even band of about a millimetre.
Strop (leather)
Leather, often with compound, used to remove the burr at the finish.
Yojo (lacquering a stone)
Coating the sides and base of a natural stone with lacquer so water does not crack it.
Feedback (feel on the stone)
The smoothness or resistance felt in the hand while sharpening.

7Japanese Pottery & Kiln Regions

The main regions and categories of Japan's traditional ceramics — porcelain, earthenware and unglazed ware.

Porcelain

Arita / Imari (Saga)
Japan's first porcelain — bright red overglaze and blue-and-white on a clear white body.
Hasami (Nagasaki)
Modern, well-designed porcelain for everyday use.
Kutani (Ishikawa)
Rich painting in the five Kutani colours — green, yellow, purple, deep blue and red.
Tobe (Ehime)
Thick, sturdy white porcelain with deep blue gosu painting.

Earthenware

Mino (Gifu)
The top producer, with varied styles such as Shino, Oribe and Kiseto.
Seto (Aichi)
Origin of the word setomono; one of the Six Ancient Kilns with wide-ranging glaze skills.
Mashiko (Tochigi)
The home of Hamada Shoji — warm, thick folk-craft pottery.
Kasama (Ibaraki)
Pottery where the maker's free, individual forms stand out.
Hagi (Yamaguchi)
Famous for hagi no nanabake — tea stains seeping into its crackle glaze with use.
Karatsu (Saga)
A subdued, characterful tea ware, ranked in the saying ichi-Raku ni-Hagi san-Karatsu.
Satsuma (Kagoshima)
Both the ornate white Satsuma and the plain, tough black Satsuma.
Onta (Oita)
Folk-craft pottery carrying on tobiganna and hakeme techniques.
Yachimun (Okinawa)
Bold, generous Okinawan pottery made with local clay and ash.

Unglazed (yakishime)

Bizen (Okayama)
Uses no glaze at all — prized for kiln effects, ash sesame and fire colour.
Shigaraki (Shiga)
Loved for its coarse clay feel and natural ash-glaze scorching.
Tamba Tachikui (Hyogo)
One of the Six Ancient Kilns, with quiet, settled colours.
Echizen (Fukui)
Plain unglazed ware that grew from practical water jars.
Tokoname (Aichi)
Nationally famous for red-clay shudei teapots.
Iga (Mie)
Heat-resistant ware with rugged clay and glassy natural ash glaze.
Banko (Mie)
Exceptionally heat-resistant; it makes much of Japan's donabe clay pots.

Glazes & decorative techniques

Shino glaze
A thick feldspar glaze that leaves small pinholes on a white body.
Oribe glaze
A vivid copper-green glaze with free geometric patterns.
Kiseto glaze
A soft, settled yellow glaze, seen for example in ayame-de.
Kohiki
A soft white look made by coating a brown body with white slip.
Hakeme
Keeping the brushed movement of white slip as decoration.
Mishima (inka)
An inlay technique stamping a pattern and filling it with white clay.
Celadon (seiji)
Porcelain whose iron-bearing glaze turns blue-green in a reduction firing.
Gosu / Sometsuke
Underglaze blue painting with cobalt-oxide pigment.
Ogusuya (green glaze)
A green glaze used in Okinawan yachimun and other ware.

8Tableware Shapes & Aesthetics

The shapes of Japanese vessels, and the traditional eye for appreciating them.

Dish shapes & functions

Hirazara / Kakuzara
The basic flat plate and square plate for plating.
Kobachi (small bowl)
A small, deep bowl for dressed or simmered dishes.
Katakuchi (spouted bowl)
A vessel with a pouring lip on one side, for sake or sauces.
Kodai-zara (footed plate)
A formal plate raised on a tall foot ring.
Henkei-zara (irregular plate)
An asymmetric plate shaped like a fan or a leaf.
Mamezara (mini plate)
A palm-sized tiny plate for soy sauce or pickles.
Sakazuki
A shallow, flat sake cup.
Guinomi
A small, deeper sake cup to drink from freely.
Tokkuri
A narrow-necked flask for serving sake.
Soba choko
A cup for dipping soba, also handy as a free cup for many uses.

Aesthetics & features

Kannyu (crackle glaze)
The fine web of cracks that forms in the glaze as it cools after firing.
Yohen (kiln change)
Chance changes of colour and pattern from flame, ash and temperature in the kiln.
Keshiki (scenery)
Reading the surface's texture, fire colour and ash as if it were a natural landscape.
Kintsugi (gold joinery)
Mending a broken or chipped vessel beautifully with lacquer and gold.
Mikomi (interior bottom)
The inner base of a vessel.
Kodai (foot ring)
The foot ring that supports a vessel; the tatamazuri is the surface that touches the table.
Hiiro (fire colour)
Red-to-orange colour where iron in the clay reacts to the flame.
Goma (sesame ash)
Wood ash that settles and melts on the ware like a scattering of sesame.
Sangiri
Grey-to-silver areas reduced by being buried in charcoal.
Wabi-sabi
The uniquely Japanese eye that finds beauty in imperfection, simplicity and the marks of age.
Tobiganna (chatter marks)
Rows of dotted marks cut by a springing blade against the turning wheel.

9Lacquer, Glass & Kitchen Tools

The craft vessels and specialist tools that support and set off good cooking.

Lacquerware regions

Wajima-nuri (Ishikawa)
Sturdy, elegant premium lacquerware built up with jinoko undercoats.
Aizu-nuri (Fukushima)
Durable, practical traditional lacquerware.
Yamanaka-nuri (Ishikawa)
Lacquerware with fine wood-turning that shows off the grain.
Tsugaru-nuri (Aomori)
Famous for kara-nuri, built by repeated coating and grinding-back.

Lacquer decoration

Makie
Sprinkling gold or silver powder onto a design drawn in wet lacquer.
Chinkin
Carving lines into the surface, then filling them with lacquer and gold leaf.
Fuki-urushi
Rubbing lacquer into wood and wiping it back, letting the grain show through.

Traditional glassware

Edo Kiriko (Tokyo)
Cut glass admired for its sharp facets and clarity.
Satsuma Kiriko (Kagoshima)
Cut through a thick coloured layer to create a graded, blurred shading.

Japanese kitchen tools

Samekawa oroshi (sharkskin grater)
A real sharkskin board for grating wasabi to a fine paste.
Copper grater (do-oroshigane)
A grater with sharp teeth punched up by hand.
Honenuki (fish-bone tweezers)
Precise tweezers for pulling small bones from fish.
Moribashi / Manabashi
Fine plating chopsticks tipped with metal.
Magewappa (bentwood box)
A wooden container made by bending thin sheets of cedar.
Yukihira nabe
A staple Japanese saucepan hammered with a tsuchime texture.
Tetsubin / Nambu tekki (Iwate)
Traditional ironware that gives boiled water a rounder, softer taste.

10Global Community & Slang

The words and culture that circulate among knife and craft collectors abroad.

Shopping destinations

Kappabashi (Tokyo)
The kitchenware wholesale street near Asakusa in Tokyo.
Doguyasuji (Osaka)
The kitchenware street in Namba, Osaka.

Community terms & slang

J-Knife / JNAT
Shorthand for Japanese Knife and Japanese Natural whetstone.
NKD (New Knife Day)
A celebratory tag posted to social media when someone buys a new knife.
Choil shot
A cross-section photo taken looking down the blade from the choil.
No Choil, No Care
A meme that a post without a choil shot cannot really be judged.
Grail knife / Grail stone
A dream piece a collector wants above all others.
Patina progression
The culture of sharing how a carbon-steel blade changes colour with use.
Pass-around
A group mailing a prized knife around in turn to try and review it.
KKF (Kitchen Knife Forums)
One of the largest English-language forums for knife enthusiasts and makers.
BST (Buy, Sell, Trade)
The person-to-person buy, sell and trade threads on a forum.

11Maintenance & Care

The terms for keeping a knife and its tools in good order for a long life.

Tsubaki oil (camellia oil)
Oil wiped onto a carbon-steel blade in storage to keep rust away.
VCI paper (rust-inhibitor paper)
A special storage paper carrying a vapour-phase rust inhibitor.
Rust eraser
An abrasive block for rubbing off light surface rust.
Sink bridge
A holder set across the sink to steady a whetstone.
Ginkgo / Hinoki cutting board
Wooden boards that are gentle on the edge.
Chipping (micro-chipping)
The edge chipping when it meets something too hard.
Over-sharpening
Sharpening so much that the edge thins and loses strength.
Shokunin kishitsu (craftsman spirit)
The Japanese spirit of refining a craft without compromise.

See the words in steel

The best way to understand these terms is to hold the knives. Come to our Akihabara and Namba stores, test-cut, and ask us anything — one stroke teaches more than any glossary.

See the knives